《海洋预报》| 寒潮影响下月亮湾砂质海岸剖面演变数值模拟

摘要：利用Delft3D水动力模型和XBeach沙滩模型相结合的方式，探究了2023年11月寒潮过程中莱州湾月亮湾砂质海岸的响应过程，以0～19 h、20～27 h、28～47 h和48～70 h分别代表寒潮影响初期、寒潮影响最大阶段、寒潮影响减小阶段和寒潮影响结束阶段。分析结果表明：寒潮影响初期（0～19 h），各剖面呈现同步侵蚀-堆积响应，呈现“上淤下蚀”形态；寒潮影响最大阶段（20～27 h），侵蚀锋面向海推进，最大侵蚀深度增加，80%输沙量堆积于潮间带上部，出现沿岸输移分异现象；寒潮影响减小阶段（28～47 h），复合动力作用导致最大侵蚀量突破0.4 m，潮间带上部形成0.45 m堆积体，滩面沙源空间开始分配失衡；寒潮影响后期阶段（48～70 h），波高衰减至0.8 m后地形调整趋缓，但累计效应使最大冲淤量达0.5 m。研究期间，寒潮导致的波浪爬高极值达3.46 m，其空间分布呈现显著剖面差异性，但均低于各剖面滩顶临界高程。这种水位-地形耦合作用导致潮间带上部持续处于动力超冲带，形成系统性侵蚀环境，这一机制是整个海滩剖面呈现净侵蚀主导地貌演变模式的核心原因。

关键词：寒潮 砂质海岸 海岸侵蚀 XBeach Delft3D

Abstract：This paper uses the Delft3D hydrodynamic model and the XBeach beach model to investigate the responses of the sandy coastline at Moon Bay in Laizhou Bay to the cold wave in December 2023. The periods of wave generation, wave peak, wave decay and wave die out are represented by 0～19 h, 20～27 h, 28～47 h, and 48～70 h, respectively. The results show that during the wave generation period (0～19 h), all profiles exhibit synchronous erosion-deposition responses, forming a "siltation above, erosion below" pattern; during the peak period (20～27 h), the erosion front advances towards the sea, with the maximum erosion depth increasing, and 80% of the sediment load is deposited on the upper inter tidal zone, leading to coastal transport differentiation; during the wave decay period (28～47 h), composite dynamic forces cause the maximum erosion volume to exceed 0.4 m, forming a 0.45 m deposit on the upper inter tidal zone, and the spatial distribution of sand sources begins to unbalance; during the wave die out period (48～70 h), after the wave height decays to 0.8 m, the terrain adjustment slows down, but cumulative effects result in a maximum sedimentation volume of 0.5 m. During the study period, the extreme wave height caused by the cold wave reaches 3.46 m, showing significant spatial differences across profiles, but all below the critical elevation of the intertidal top. This water-level-topography coupling effect keeps the upper intertidal zone in a super-sedimentation zone, creating a systematic erosion environment

Key words：cold wave; sandy coast; coastal erosion; XBeach; Delft3D

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